IT’S 7 AM, and a thin layer of mist still hovers over the harbor in Talamone as fisherman Paolo Fanciulli stretches out his nets. Pulling them out of a plastic tub, he examines them section by section, setting the ripped ones aside to be repaired. It’s a time-consuming process—one that’s occupied men from this tiny village on the coast of Tuscany for centuries. But in recent years, Fancuilli has spent more time working on ways to protect fish than on catching them.
The problems started, he explains, with the arrival of large-scale industrial trawlers in the 1980s. Trailing chain-weighted nets, these boats scraped the seabed bare, scooping up not just
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