It’s a problem as intractable as the riddle of the Sphinx: How do you make a vegan cheese that people actually want to eat?
Formo, a Berlin-based biotechnology company, thinks it has found the answer in a minuscule fungus, Koji, that has given that distinctive umami flavor to soy sauce, miso and other staples of Japanese cuisine for thousands of years. Formo ferments the Koji to produce a protein that provides the base of its dairy-free cheeses.
Raffael Wohlgensinger, Formo’s co-founder and chief executive, started the company five years ago to create
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